I bought the dynamod TFI module and installed it before heading to Mustang Week. The one that came out had no issues at all - a stock motorcraft TFI that I had taken off of a foxbody distributor and modified to fit the heat sync. After taking it for a test drive I noticed a stumble between 4-5k RPM WOT. I didn't want to swap it while I was in MW, but I did when I got back. Stumble went away. So that motorcraft TFI is staying in there. I have another stock fox distributor with a known good TFI (tested it on my car by stuffing the distributor in the fender well and plugging it in), so that will be the spare.
That Dynamod TFI is now in the hands of USPS on the way back to summit. One more thing - Summit wouldn't help me out with the 25$ shipping and handling I spent - so I have to eat that. For comparision - Amazon has a ZERO questions asked full refund if you buy anything via Prime. If I can shop via Amazon, that's where I'm going.
Update: I have since learned that there was a hypertech chip installed in the T4M0 computer. This could have something to do with the incompatibility of the TFI. Also, I learned that the 94 is an ICCD (increased computer controlled dwell), so the 'increased dwell' that the dynamod TFI offers may not be for 94/95 since the computer controls it. More info in my blog post about TFI.
Friday, July 24, 2015
Wednesday, July 22, 2015
94 Mustang GT Convertible: Springs and Lower Control Arms
Not long ago, I upgraded the wheels on the 94GT convertible to the GT500s from AM. As a result of going to a bigger wheel / tire the stance sat a little bit high. I removed all the isolators and that corrected the stance. The stock springs still remained in there.
After loading the car up and heading down to Myrtle Beach, my concerns of the tire hitting the fender was realized. This only happened in the back, but did manage to leave some marks / gouges on the tire. It was nothing I could (or wanted to) fix in Myrtle Beach, almost 650 miles from my home (and air conditioned garage). Time to upgrade!!!
Springs:
I can't imagine what spring rate the stock springs are now after 239,000 miles. They have to be exhausted. Solution - Eibach pro kit with energy suspension spring isolators have been ordered. They make a kit specifically for a convertible (3530.140). I'm thinking it will give the same ride height as the stock springs with no isolators. We will see. If I don't like how it sits, I can always put the stockers back in.
Rear lower control arms:
A long time ago when I had my 90GT and this 94GT convertible, I upgraded the 90GT to a double adjustable UMI Performance lower control arm. This helped center the rear wheel in the wheel well. It was also spherical on the housing side and poly on the other, which helped with the street / strip theme of that car. I removed the Hotchkins non adjustable LCAs and installed them in the 94GT along with some non adjustable BBK upper control arms which I picked up used for 50$ shipped. I'm pretty sure I spent less than 100$ to buy those Hotchkins LCAs used at one time - but it was SO long ago I don't remember. I dont have the 90GT anymore, so there are no more hand-me-down parts. My plan is to pull those Hotchkins LCAs out and replace them with Maximum Motorsports sport series weight jacker LCAs (MMRLCA-102). These are the ones with the poly bushings on both sides. That will allow ride height adjustment when we overload the car for a road trip!
Stay tuned for the update on the installation!
After loading the car up and heading down to Myrtle Beach, my concerns of the tire hitting the fender was realized. This only happened in the back, but did manage to leave some marks / gouges on the tire. It was nothing I could (or wanted to) fix in Myrtle Beach, almost 650 miles from my home (and air conditioned garage). Time to upgrade!!!
Springs:
I can't imagine what spring rate the stock springs are now after 239,000 miles. They have to be exhausted. Solution - Eibach pro kit with energy suspension spring isolators have been ordered. They make a kit specifically for a convertible (3530.140). I'm thinking it will give the same ride height as the stock springs with no isolators. We will see. If I don't like how it sits, I can always put the stockers back in.
Rear lower control arms:
A long time ago when I had my 90GT and this 94GT convertible, I upgraded the 90GT to a double adjustable UMI Performance lower control arm. This helped center the rear wheel in the wheel well. It was also spherical on the housing side and poly on the other, which helped with the street / strip theme of that car. I removed the Hotchkins non adjustable LCAs and installed them in the 94GT along with some non adjustable BBK upper control arms which I picked up used for 50$ shipped. I'm pretty sure I spent less than 100$ to buy those Hotchkins LCAs used at one time - but it was SO long ago I don't remember. I dont have the 90GT anymore, so there are no more hand-me-down parts. My plan is to pull those Hotchkins LCAs out and replace them with Maximum Motorsports sport series weight jacker LCAs (MMRLCA-102). These are the ones with the poly bushings on both sides. That will allow ride height adjustment when we overload the car for a road trip!
Stay tuned for the update on the installation!
94 Mustang GT: Redline Hood Struts
I had a bad experience a while ago where a gust of wind grabbed my hood while it was open and nearly smashed my windshield. If it wasn't for the wiper stoping the hood, it would have been a much more horrible experience, especially with a convertible! Luckily I was left with just a gouge in my hood to remind me that hood props hold the hood up, but don't prevent it from going further!
At Mustang Week, Redline offers some good discounts - you can't find them at a better price. I picked up a set for my 94 GT and for my 03 Cobra. I decided to practice on the 94 first. The instructions that come with the struts are in depth, with pictures, and perfect. For this reason, I'm not doing a write up on this install. The instructions made the install go VERY well. One more thing to mention is the correct tools. Instructions did call for a #11 index drill bit - which I borrowed from a friend.
Pic of the hood open!At Mustang Week, Redline offers some good discounts - you can't find them at a better price. I picked up a set for my 94 GT and for my 03 Cobra. I decided to practice on the 94 first. The instructions that come with the struts are in depth, with pictures, and perfect. For this reason, I'm not doing a write up on this install. The instructions made the install go VERY well. One more thing to mention is the correct tools. Instructions did call for a #11 index drill bit - which I borrowed from a friend.
Pay no mind to the beyond dirty engine bay. It will get addressed when the engine is replaced this winter.
Tuesday, July 7, 2015
94 Mustang GT: Daily Driver Motor: Valve Covers
It seems that every time I have a decent set of rocker arms, there is a need to find some valve covers that will actually fit over the rockers. The rockers are scorpion pedestal mount 1.72 ratio. They are sitting on top of GT40 Iron heads. I tried a bunch of valve covers so far. Most would require a spacer under the upper intake for them to work, or they do not clear the rockers, or the strut tower brace. Its a dance that all too many people are familiar with. I thought about going with the trick flow stock height valve covers (known to work), but wanted to see if I could make a set of foxbody covers work.
I tried a set of 1993 valve covers. They seem to fit well, but the oil filler neck on the passenger side looks like it is going to interfere with the cold air intake. The thought popped into my head - why not use two driver side valve covers! Doing this would essentially eliminate the oil fill neck and hose that goes to the cold air intake. There is still some work to do.
Modifying the driver side valve cover
I procured a 3/8 NPT female weld fitting from Jegs part number 15252. We cut a hole in the valve cover and tig welded this in. And by we I mean my buddy Lou did the tigging and I did the cutting / modification of the fitting. It had to be shortened a bit using a belt sander. I also procured a fitting from amazon.com: Banjo HB038-90 Polypropylene Hose Fitting, 90 Degree Elbow, 3/8" NPT Male x 3/8" Barbed. It's plastic and will accept the same diameter hose as what is typically on the filler neck for the passenger side valve cover. The last step is to fabricate a baffle under the fitting that was welded in to prevent the intake from sucking in too much oil.
Two driver side covers
To eliminate the filler neck on the passenger side, I decided to procure another driver side valve cover. The first valve cover I got was from ebay and was for an 86-93 5.0. The dial stamp on the inside of the cover was marked 87 meaning it came from that model year. That one didn't fit. There are some braces on the inside walls of the cover that hit the rockers. I kept an eye out on ebay and finally found a set for a decent price - passenger and driver side. So now I have two sets of valve covers from the 93 model year. That one fit as expected - no problems.
Prep and Paint
I plan to prep and paint the valve covers. While I'm working on those I'll keep the two passenger side covers on the motor - so two filler necks. The upper intake is not yet installed, so there are no clearance issues. The plan is to strip, parts wash, and prep the two valve covers for paint. I'm going to use a self etching primer and black wrinkle paint on both valve covers. This will be done after the baffle is tig welded in place.
Update:
Bung was welded in. My buddy who did the tig work also welded in a baffle that I mocked up. The covers were then taken to a shop to have them powder coated flat black. I think they came out great! They clear both sides of the rockers, no problem.
I tried a set of 1993 valve covers. They seem to fit well, but the oil filler neck on the passenger side looks like it is going to interfere with the cold air intake. The thought popped into my head - why not use two driver side valve covers! Doing this would essentially eliminate the oil fill neck and hose that goes to the cold air intake. There is still some work to do.
Modifying the driver side valve cover
I procured a 3/8 NPT female weld fitting from Jegs part number 15252. We cut a hole in the valve cover and tig welded this in. And by we I mean my buddy Lou did the tigging and I did the cutting / modification of the fitting. It had to be shortened a bit using a belt sander. I also procured a fitting from amazon.com: Banjo HB038-90 Polypropylene Hose Fitting, 90 Degree Elbow, 3/8" NPT Male x 3/8" Barbed. It's plastic and will accept the same diameter hose as what is typically on the filler neck for the passenger side valve cover. The last step is to fabricate a baffle under the fitting that was welded in to prevent the intake from sucking in too much oil.
Two driver side covers
To eliminate the filler neck on the passenger side, I decided to procure another driver side valve cover. The first valve cover I got was from ebay and was for an 86-93 5.0. The dial stamp on the inside of the cover was marked 87 meaning it came from that model year. That one didn't fit. There are some braces on the inside walls of the cover that hit the rockers. I kept an eye out on ebay and finally found a set for a decent price - passenger and driver side. So now I have two sets of valve covers from the 93 model year. That one fit as expected - no problems.
Prep and Paint
I plan to prep and paint the valve covers. While I'm working on those I'll keep the two passenger side covers on the motor - so two filler necks. The upper intake is not yet installed, so there are no clearance issues. The plan is to strip, parts wash, and prep the two valve covers for paint. I'm going to use a self etching primer and black wrinkle paint on both valve covers. This will be done after the baffle is tig welded in place.
Update:
Bung was welded in. My buddy who did the tig work also welded in a baffle that I mocked up. The covers were then taken to a shop to have them powder coated flat black. I think they came out great! They clear both sides of the rockers, no problem.
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