Here are my notes from the engine swap. It kind of covers what I went through on a day to day basis. The plan was to take a week off work, pull the T5, get it to Hanlon for a rebuild, pull the engine and get the new engine installed. It was a great plan, but didn't really play out that way.
First step was disassembly and actually getting the engine and trans out of the car. Here are some notes on that.
Start 2/8/2016
Disconnect the fuel shut off switch
Run the car until it stalls
Crank the car a few more times
Disconnect and remove the battery - keep it on a tender
Remove the mid pipe
Remove the driveshaft
Remove the shifter, speedo, reverse
Remove the crossmember and transmission
Take the trans to have it rebuilt at Hanlon Motorsports 2/10
Drain coolant, remove radiator
remove cold air intake
unbolt the power steering bracket and keep it off to the side.
remove upper intake - throttle cable, vac lines, EGR tube
Unplug EVERYTHING - there’s a lot
Motor mount bolts
ground strap and starter wire loom (3 spots)
engine out 2/12/2016
Trans - dropped off 2/10/2016 to Hanlon motorsports. The rebuild took just under 3 weeks time, but was totally worth it.
Got trans back 2/28/2016 - fixed cancer on main shaft, cluster support brace, latest rebuild kit, new fork and pivot ball.
Now that I had the trans back, There were some things needed. I made a list and then marked them off with the word done once it was taken care of.
Done Vacuum line 3/8 and 1/4. This was for the fuel pressure regulator, bypassing the smog vac lines and new hose for the PCV.
Before engine install
Done - Wire loom repair. Some broke / cracked during the extraction of the engine.
Done - install bell housing, new clutch fork, new release bearing
Done - replace pivot ball - the stock one was cone rather than a dome from all the wear.
Done - Restore dipstick tube. Stripped, painted with etching primer and then black wrinkle.
Done - Install dipstick along with some black RTV to prevent leaking
done - rust on the framerails - how far does it go? This was way worse than I thought it was. We cut holes in the frame rails and knocked out as much rust as possible. Then needed to do some rehab to stop the rust.
Done - Rust rehab in the framerails - wire brush, degreaser, metal prep, POR15
Done- Create cardboard frame rail templates - there will be an inner plate (11GA steel) and an outer plate that goes over that.
Done create frame rail plates 11 gauge 1/8 inch steel from templates. Inner and outer both sides.
Done test fit frame rail plates
Done paint frame rail plates with weld through primer.
Done - Lou - weld in frame rail plates - inner and outer. Some additional cutting , bending , shaping.
Done - wire wheel plates / welds
Done self etching primer the plates
Done black wrinkle over primer.
Some work on the engine while it was on the engine stand.
Done - New bbk ceramic unequal headers and header studs.
done - tighten header bolts
Done - Upper intake bolts - trim? No
Done - Distributer install
Done - install EGR on upper intake.
done - install passenger side VC vent tube
Done - install TB.
done - clearance intake - make it fit without spacer. This was achieved by changing the pvc fitting on the upper plenum (in the back) with a plastic one that had a lower profile. Also had to grind away some of the TB mounting flange on the back side. Then the intake fit without a spacer!
done - make EGR block plate
Done - trans prep - install crossmember, rebuild shifter, install vss, add fluid (Dex III Merc, non synthetic), install shifter.
Finally time for Reassembly
Done break out the crane!
Done Install motor mounts and motor once on the crane
Done install motor 3/7/2016 it is in the car.
Done PS bracket
Done coil install
Done Engine electrical hookups
Done Trans install
Done Shifter handle, boot and knob
Done Coolant lines
Done Fuel lines
Done Radiator and overflow
3/8/2016
Done Starter and bolts
Done Cap and wires
Done Idler pulley
Done Motor mount nuts
Done Driveshaft
Done mid pipe and O2 sensors
Done grounding straps
Done Upper intake, electrical, vac lines
Done EGR tube install on header (with Penny) - this was removed later.
Done Cold air intake
Done validate belt routing
3/11/2016
Done Fuel shut off
Done Battery
Done Coolant
Done power steering fluid
First startup - prime 2x pull spout
3/12/2016 it runs (rough). It was late so I didn't run it for long.
3/13/2016 Set the Timing at 10 degrees with the spout out.
Throttle body adjustment - base idle reset.
Adjust clutch cable - too tight. Needed to take out the MM 3/4 spacer at the end of the cable where it meets the clutch fork.
I'm having problems with it staying running. I did get the timing set and made a mess of the coolant. trying to burp the system. Pulled the codes and got one for the ECT. Off to the store we go. To pick up fuel pressure gauge (rented), IAC, ECT, and a belt.
3/14 - Lou showed up to help out! pulled plugs - fouled. codes say engine coolant temp sensor is bad. fuel pressure is good. belt is too short. Back to autozone to pick up plugs and exchange the belt. When we got back we replaced belt it fit well. We replaced plugs, and did another idle base reset. Unplugged the ECT from the car and plugged in new ECT - not installed, but It idles (cold)!
3/16 Installed ECT and added more antifreeze. Idle set at cold and hot.
3/19 Its finally down off jack stands, and I got a chance to ckear out the garage. Test drive led to CEL - multiple.
3/20 - CEL for lean exhaust. Fixed exhaust leak - #4 header tube passenger side. I loosened header, tightened #4 and the rest. Also moved shim on k member for mid pipe clearance. firewall adjuster is all the way in - still tight. I also found muffler is cracked. Removed spacer from MM clutch cable at the quadrant. adjusted firewall adjuster - clutch feel is perfect now.
3/22 - Cleared codes and drove it. Multiple codes point to CCRM (fan low speed, fuel pump relay). Replaced. Codes are gone for CCRM. I must have kicked the CCRM I don't know how many times getting into and out of the engine bay when doing the rust rehab.
3/24 - Replaced O2 sensors. Cleared memory and drove it. CEL again.
3/25 - Still getting lean code. Fixed header collector flange leak on drivers side. Installed new stainless studs, nuts and washers. Cleared memory and drove it again. Still getting CEL.
3/27 - Lean code still there. Also suspect fuel issue. Traced wires. Found that power to ground pin on the engine harness side for the drivers side O2 sensor connector is pushed back. Serviced by taking weather pack apart and moving the pin then putting it back together. No more lean code 176! Found fuel on the intake. #1 injector popped out. loosened fuel rail, pushed injector back in, held down fuel rail and tightened. At this point, I also ordered the Moates Quarterhorse package and Binary Editor.
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