94 Mustang GT: Daily Driver Motor: Disassembly

Finally got started last night. I cut a piece of plywood to span the two legs of the engine stand. that does two things - place to put the tools and a makeshift oil drip tray.

First thing I did was remove the oil pan. I noted which bolts were missing - the 4 for the timing cover, and two on either side of the rear crank, one or two from the pan itself. good thing I have extras of these! I got out a package of zip lock bags and labeled one "oil pan bolts" and put them all in there. I removed pan rails - they go between the pan and the bolts - and the pan and set it aside. Next was the oil pickup and the pump. I remove the two bolts from the pickup to pump, and the main cap nut that holds the pickup. then I removed the pickup. two bolts for the pump and that came off too. another zip lock for the oil pump bolts. i put the pickup in a big cardboard box along with the oil pan rails that live on either side of the pan. This oil pan is tapped for an oil return - likely from a supercharger, so I wont be re-using it. I wont be re-using the oil pump either.

next up, I checked the orientation of the pistons as they sit in the block. the bottom of each of the TRW pistons is scribed with a number, and an arrow. the arrow points to the front of the motor (good idea!). I'm not exactly sure what the number is for. The number 1 cylinder piston Rod and Rod cap were stamped with number 1 (the other 7 are correct as well - rod and rod cap stamp match the number of the bore), but the scribe mark was number 3. I'll disregard the scribe mark unless I figure out what that is for.

motor is upside down. I set number 1 at TDC - piston closest to the deck, rod centered in the bore. then I removed the rod nuts and carefully removed the rod cap. I put some nylon tubing on the rod bolts so that they wont nick the crank. this part is super important! if that crank gets nicked - its a very expensive mistake! I plan to polish the crank - not replace or turn it. back to the pistons - i used a 1/2 inch wooden oak dowel - about 2.5 ft long and a hammer. I put the oak dowel on the piston and gave it a few taps. someone was on the other side of the motor ready to catch the piston when it came out. it came right out with just a few taps. I put the rod cap back on the piston, along with the rod nuts. then I did the same thing for number 5, which is across from number 1. Repeat for the rest.

had about 2 hours into it, which included pulling everything out - tools, stand, etc, making the plywood piece, labeling everything and eventually putting it all back away. The engine lives in a plastic garbage bag while its tucked away.

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