For some time now I've been chasing a random stumble. I eventually tracked it down to a misfire / ignition. I could see in the data logs that the RPM would drop, then catch up again. Shortly after that the wideband would show a lean condition. It turned out to be the TFI. I replaced it with a DY1077 motorcraft TFI (they no longer say motorcraft on them, but it is a ford part). Theres a bit of a story behind it though.
Some time ago the stock TFI failed. Car died, towed home wouldn't start. I had an old fox distributor with a working TFI, so I stuffed that in the fender, plugged in the TFI and it started right up. I removed the TFI from the stock distributor, modified it to fit and installed it with some dielectric grease. For a few years, the car ran just fine, so I didn't expect there to be an issue. I can only assume that the ignition demands of the new motor made the stumble present itself. Thats when I did some research. Long story short, the 86-93 Fox TFI are Push Start, and dwell is controlled by the TFI module alone. 94/95 are TFI-ICCD (increased computer controlled dwell) and the ECU will control a few additional parameters related to dwell (coil charging). When a Fox TFI is used in a 94/94, the ECU defaults to PIP to control dwell, which is very short. here is a great write up!
http://www.myo-p.com/Ford-EEC/EEC%20Help%20files/Files/TFI_grey_or_black.html
now the car runs awesome with the correct TFI installed. I'm also playing around with the spark tables. I found that adding an additional 2 degrees really didn't add to the performance / seat of the pants feel. But it wasn't pinging either. So when I needed fuel I used regular rather than premium, and it still runs awesome. I do have the fuel type set to 10% ethanol, so the calibration accounts for that.
Thursday, May 26, 2016
Monday, May 16, 2016
94 Mustang GT: Moates Quarterhorse and Binary Editor - T4M2 by Decipha
Before I go any further, I want to give credit where credit is due. I have been absolutely devouring the knowledge base located at info.efidynotuning.com. efidynotuning.com is a site / forum created by decipha and it is an absolute wealth of knowledge on tuning efi. From that site I have downloaded the free T4M2 calibration and made the required changes as described on that page. For some reason I have yet to figure out, I'm not able get the car to a warm stable idle with that calibration. I believe my issue lies in the dashpot, as it seems that the bottom falls out as it idles down and just stalls. I know that it's not an issue with the T4M2 base calibration, because it is widely used. It's some value in the calibration that needs to change for my particular car / application. I'll eventually figure it out!
The T4M0 calibration works just fine. In that calibration I have the changes for the 90mm F150 MAF, the Siemens Deka 60lb / hr injectors and changes to cubic inches for the 306. I also made changes to turn off EGR and thermactor, and fan temps. Using T4M2 as a reference, and per the advice on efidynotuning.com, I have simplified the spark tables to use only borderline, scaled RPM and Load functions and increased spark by 6 degrees for the GT40 heads. I also made changes to the MAF transfer to start to dial in fuel by using Lambda - Lambse + KAMRF = Error %. In this calibration, perload is still inferred load and that will definitely need to change to perload = 0.
I'm going to start over with the T4M2 calibration / changes. Maybe there is something I missed or some typo thats causing me the grief with that calibration.
The T4M0 calibration works just fine. In that calibration I have the changes for the 90mm F150 MAF, the Siemens Deka 60lb / hr injectors and changes to cubic inches for the 306. I also made changes to turn off EGR and thermactor, and fan temps. Using T4M2 as a reference, and per the advice on efidynotuning.com, I have simplified the spark tables to use only borderline, scaled RPM and Load functions and increased spark by 6 degrees for the GT40 heads. I also made changes to the MAF transfer to start to dial in fuel by using Lambda - Lambse + KAMRF = Error %. In this calibration, perload is still inferred load and that will definitely need to change to perload = 0.
I'm going to start over with the T4M2 calibration / changes. Maybe there is something I missed or some typo thats causing me the grief with that calibration.
Wednesday, May 11, 2016
Jersey Shore Festival note to our Venom Crew!
Hello everyone!
The Jersey shore festival is going to be a great time. I grew up in Toms River and spent a good bit of time in Seaside growing up. I'll try and share some insights!
I know this goes without saying, please use your best judgement. I know from experience that Toms River and Seaside law enforcement has ZERO tolerance for shenanigans. Some of my friends that I grew up with work there, and they are good people! However, they won't hesitate to hand out a citation. This includes noise pollution from loud stereos! I'm sure it will be very crowded, so please stay alert! We don't want to make the news for any of the wrong reasons.
For those staying at the island beach motor lodge, Bum Rogers is just about across the street. The restaurant has decent food (there are better restaurants in the area if you're looking for an elegant dining experience) and the prices at the bar are reasonable.
PJ already mentioned the 7-11 that is close to the hotel. There's also a nicer CVS located near the bridge. Closer to Ortley beach (Ortley plaza) is an Acme grocery store and a spirits unlimited. Seaside liquors is another place to get your beer / wine / liquor.
The Saw Mill - I think we are all going to meet here at one point - has excellent pizza and food. There's also a bar here. Steaks unlimited and midway steak house are a few of my other favorites to get a bite. There are plenty of other places along the boards to grab some food on the run. I've had some of the best funnel cakes and zeppoles from places along the boards.
If you want to head into Toms River, there are a few places to mention. Naples pizza on Fisher Blvd has GREAT pizza / food. The Shop Rite on Fisher blvd is also really nice and would have anything you need. Across the street from Shop Rite is a car wash (I worked here at one point, they do good work!) and another spirits unlimited, with a pretty good selection and decent prices.
As I think of more, I'll get this updated!
The Jersey shore festival is going to be a great time. I grew up in Toms River and spent a good bit of time in Seaside growing up. I'll try and share some insights!
I know this goes without saying, please use your best judgement. I know from experience that Toms River and Seaside law enforcement has ZERO tolerance for shenanigans. Some of my friends that I grew up with work there, and they are good people! However, they won't hesitate to hand out a citation. This includes noise pollution from loud stereos! I'm sure it will be very crowded, so please stay alert! We don't want to make the news for any of the wrong reasons.
For those staying at the island beach motor lodge, Bum Rogers is just about across the street. The restaurant has decent food (there are better restaurants in the area if you're looking for an elegant dining experience) and the prices at the bar are reasonable.
PJ already mentioned the 7-11 that is close to the hotel. There's also a nicer CVS located near the bridge. Closer to Ortley beach (Ortley plaza) is an Acme grocery store and a spirits unlimited. Seaside liquors is another place to get your beer / wine / liquor.
The Saw Mill - I think we are all going to meet here at one point - has excellent pizza and food. There's also a bar here. Steaks unlimited and midway steak house are a few of my other favorites to get a bite. There are plenty of other places along the boards to grab some food on the run. I've had some of the best funnel cakes and zeppoles from places along the boards.
If you want to head into Toms River, there are a few places to mention. Naples pizza on Fisher Blvd has GREAT pizza / food. The Shop Rite on Fisher blvd is also really nice and would have anything you need. Across the street from Shop Rite is a car wash (I worked here at one point, they do good work!) and another spirits unlimited, with a pretty good selection and decent prices.
As I think of more, I'll get this updated!
Monday, May 2, 2016
94 Mustang GT: Ceramic Coated Headers
While doing the engine swap, new BBK ceramic coated headers were installed. When I pulled the stock motor, I already had some old style BBK Ceramic coated headers on the engine. They were shorties, and had been 'fixed' before I installed them years ago. When removing them from the stock motor I remembered how badly the individual flanges lined up with the exhaust ports. The new style headers have a solid flange which allows everything to line up nicely.
I also got into a discussion with Jet Hot Coatings http://www.jet-hot.com/ for a quote. Their customer service team was extremely helpful. So much that I'm going to share my experience. I went to the web site and entered my info to get the headers (with the individual flanges) coated. The quote led to prompt emails being exchanged. There is a fee to remove ceramic coating that is already on the headers. I REALLY wanted to have Jet Hot do the work. Their coatings have a lifetime warranty, and they don't just coat the outside, they do the inside as well! Nobody else does that. My decision to just buy new BBK ceramic headers came down to 1 thing. Those individual flanges were a pain to get lined up. I remember having pry bars and ratchet straps in use to get the bolt holes to line up properly. New headers wouldn't have that problem. I had to pass on the Jet Hot, because of this issue. My experience with them was awesome. And if I had a solid flange stainless set of headers, I would definitely have them do the work.
The BBK 15250 headers arrived and they are pretty! I also put together a set of header studs using stainless set screws and stainless nuts and lock washers. Once the gasket was installed, I installed the set screws and the header mounted right up with no hassle. I'm still bummed I couldn't go with the Jet Hot coating, but this will have to do for now!
I also got into a discussion with Jet Hot Coatings http://www.jet-hot.com/ for a quote. Their customer service team was extremely helpful. So much that I'm going to share my experience. I went to the web site and entered my info to get the headers (with the individual flanges) coated. The quote led to prompt emails being exchanged. There is a fee to remove ceramic coating that is already on the headers. I REALLY wanted to have Jet Hot do the work. Their coatings have a lifetime warranty, and they don't just coat the outside, they do the inside as well! Nobody else does that. My decision to just buy new BBK ceramic headers came down to 1 thing. Those individual flanges were a pain to get lined up. I remember having pry bars and ratchet straps in use to get the bolt holes to line up properly. New headers wouldn't have that problem. I had to pass on the Jet Hot, because of this issue. My experience with them was awesome. And if I had a solid flange stainless set of headers, I would definitely have them do the work.
The BBK 15250 headers arrived and they are pretty! I also put together a set of header studs using stainless set screws and stainless nuts and lock washers. Once the gasket was installed, I installed the set screws and the header mounted right up with no hassle. I'm still bummed I couldn't go with the Jet Hot coating, but this will have to do for now!
94 Mustang GT: Siemens Deka 60lb/hr Injectors
With the new 90mm Mass Air in place, I decided to do some logging. The car felt really good during the drive, but I did see 102% Injector Duty Cycle. Now, we all know that the injectors cannot physically perform to 102% duty cycle, the ECU was commanding that. It's just showing that the injectors are maxed out.
I already mentioned that I will be installing the Siemens Deka 60lb/hr injectors, which have already arrived. Lightning Force Performance on eBay seemed to have a great price on these, which were about 300$ shipped to my door. I did install the injectors Friday night 4/29/2016, and learned something really important about the QH also. More on that in a minute.
Injector Install:
I first disconnected the fuel cutoff in the trunk and ran the car until it stalled. Then I removed the EGR tube, then all the plugs to the sensors in the upper intake - EGR, TPS and ISC. Then I removed the cold air to the throttle body and disconnected the cold air from the TB. I pulled all the bolts for the upper intake and removed the throttle and cruise cables from the TB and removed the TB bracket. There were two vac lines I had to disconnect - one for the Kirban FPR and one for the EGR. Then I was able to lift up the upper intake and remove the PCV / Vac lines from under the intake. I set the intake off to the side. I removed the fuel rail hold down bolts and lifted up the fuel rail, carefully, wiggling it as I lifted. The injectors popped out of the lower intake. One by one I removed an injector and installed the new one into the fuel rail with some motor oil on the O rings. I did not install them into the lower intake yet. Once all the injectors were replaced, I started towards the rear of the motor and pushed down, wiggling one by one until the injectors seated in the lower intake. Pushing down on the rail, I installed the bolts that hold the rail to the lower intake. The injectors were in.
After everything went back together, I had to drop the fuel pressure. I was running the fuel pressure high to try and compensate for the 19's not being enough. I turned the key on, loaded the template I created for the 60's, and the car started right up and idled just fine. Then I adjusted the fuel pressure.
I remember reading that if there is more than a 5% change to fuel, that the Keep Alive Memory should be reset. So I disconnected the ground on the battery and turned the headlights on. After 5 minutes I reconnected the ground. I tried to start the car, and nothing happened. It just cranked and cranked.
I realized something was wrong, but the only thing I did was reset the computer. I still had the laptop connected, so with the key on, I wrote the base calibration again. Then loaded the template for the mass air and updated. Then loaded the template for the 60s and updated. Then tried to start and it started right up and set into a nice idle. It was then that I realized that anything that gets 'updated' to the QH that is not part of the saved .BIN will get lost if the battery is ever disconnected. So any changes to the hardware in the car should be saved as part of the calibration. Not just updated using templates. Templates are good for 'try me' scenarios, but the saved calibration should include any calibration changes for upgrades / parts already installed.
The bung for the Innovate LC2 wideband is getting installed tonight. I'll do some data logging on the way to my buddy's house!
I already mentioned that I will be installing the Siemens Deka 60lb/hr injectors, which have already arrived. Lightning Force Performance on eBay seemed to have a great price on these, which were about 300$ shipped to my door. I did install the injectors Friday night 4/29/2016, and learned something really important about the QH also. More on that in a minute.
Injector Install:
I first disconnected the fuel cutoff in the trunk and ran the car until it stalled. Then I removed the EGR tube, then all the plugs to the sensors in the upper intake - EGR, TPS and ISC. Then I removed the cold air to the throttle body and disconnected the cold air from the TB. I pulled all the bolts for the upper intake and removed the throttle and cruise cables from the TB and removed the TB bracket. There were two vac lines I had to disconnect - one for the Kirban FPR and one for the EGR. Then I was able to lift up the upper intake and remove the PCV / Vac lines from under the intake. I set the intake off to the side. I removed the fuel rail hold down bolts and lifted up the fuel rail, carefully, wiggling it as I lifted. The injectors popped out of the lower intake. One by one I removed an injector and installed the new one into the fuel rail with some motor oil on the O rings. I did not install them into the lower intake yet. Once all the injectors were replaced, I started towards the rear of the motor and pushed down, wiggling one by one until the injectors seated in the lower intake. Pushing down on the rail, I installed the bolts that hold the rail to the lower intake. The injectors were in.
After everything went back together, I had to drop the fuel pressure. I was running the fuel pressure high to try and compensate for the 19's not being enough. I turned the key on, loaded the template I created for the 60's, and the car started right up and idled just fine. Then I adjusted the fuel pressure.
I remember reading that if there is more than a 5% change to fuel, that the Keep Alive Memory should be reset. So I disconnected the ground on the battery and turned the headlights on. After 5 minutes I reconnected the ground. I tried to start the car, and nothing happened. It just cranked and cranked.
I realized something was wrong, but the only thing I did was reset the computer. I still had the laptop connected, so with the key on, I wrote the base calibration again. Then loaded the template for the mass air and updated. Then loaded the template for the 60s and updated. Then tried to start and it started right up and set into a nice idle. It was then that I realized that anything that gets 'updated' to the QH that is not part of the saved .BIN will get lost if the battery is ever disconnected. So any changes to the hardware in the car should be saved as part of the calibration. Not just updated using templates. Templates are good for 'try me' scenarios, but the saved calibration should include any calibration changes for upgrades / parts already installed.
The bung for the Innovate LC2 wideband is getting installed tonight. I'll do some data logging on the way to my buddy's house!
95 Mustang GT: Mass Air Upgrade and Quarterhorse Templates
As the days go by, I continue to learn. I also bought a license for EEC Analyzer (also created by Clint Garrity). I've learned what a template is and how to use it, which led me to kind of start over.
Here's what I did:
Load the T4M0 base calibration. This calibration NEVER CHANGES. Keep it as read only.
1. Make changes to turn off EGR and Thermactor (smog). Save as a template.
2. Increase cubic inches to 306. Change injector crank pulsewidth vs ECT by 306 vs 302 ratio and injector change ratio (19/19 so no change really) Save as a template.
3. Make changes to low and high speed fan temps for on and off. Save as a template.
This gets saved as my T4M0Base.
Today I'm driving to and from work and logging the entire time. I'll push those logs through EEC Analyzer to see what pops up. I already know that the stock 19s are not enough. Duty cycle is just too high. And the stock mass air is barely OK. I've already seen a 4.86v reading, which means it's REAL close to being pegged. That being said - read on for the beauty of the Quarterhorse!
Mass Air sensor:
I bought from eBay a stock 2004 5.4L F150 Mass Air meter. It's basically the LMAF 90mm mass air meter, but not for the lightning. There is a KNOWN mass air transfer curve for this particular meter (sensor and housing). Shipped to my door it was 25$. Thats right - a 90mm Ford mass air meter for 25$ shipped. I had to buy some bigger 3.5 inch couplers (20$) and the correct mounting flange for an 03 F150 (15$) to get it installed with my cold air kit, and Sensor plug (I bought the original ford F150 plug for 24$ shipped). I made an adapter to go from that mass air sensor chassis side plug to the mass air harness so it will look factory. So for 85$ I can install this sensor, update the MAF transfer curve in the QH (already have a template for it) and eventually dial it in. The known curve should make it a breeze.
Installing the Mass Air:
First step was to pull out everything from the stock mass air going into the fender and get it on the bench. I then had to cut off the stock flange from the elbow that goes into the fenderwell. This wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I just needed to leave a 1 inch lip in case I needed to revert back to stock. Then I started putting together the new setup. I realized that the bolts for the stock meter to stock flange were too big and wouldn't work. Off to the hardware store for nuts and bolts. Came back and bolted the sensor to the adapter flange, added the coupler to the elbow and put that in the fender. Then the other coupler to the tube that goes to the throttle body. Then I removed the stock mass air and ACT sensor harness. I removed the pins from the chassis side harness and installed the pins for my adapter. Then I plugged in the stock F150 Mass Air harness. Plugged everthing in, tightened down all the couplers once it was all aligned, and installed the filter in the fenderwell. I then fired up the quarterhorse, loaded the template for the mass air and updated, and it started right up and settled into a nice idle. Now I have a very nice setup with the 90mm mass air.
Injectors:
For my mild 306 I'll be installing Siemens Deka 60lb/hr injectors. These are the same injectors that are sold as ford racing, except the ones I bought from lightning force performance have the jetronic connector, not the (new) USCAR. So they should plug right in. I know - first thought is - "thats way too much injector for that setup". I thought the same thing too. Again, the beauty of the QH is that there are only a few parameters to change, and they are published for the injectors: high slope, low slope, breakpoint and voltage offset. The injector crank pulsewidth also needs to be adjusted by the ratio of 19's to 60s. I already created the template for this as well. These new style injectors are very tame at the low slope and shouldn't cause problems with 'dumping' fuel at low RPM / idle. They should run like stock but at a MUCH less duty cycle. The best part - no more buying new injectors if I ever want to upgrade! These will support any application / upgrade I come up with - right up to block splitting HP (and beyond). to put it in perspective, I almost bought the 80lb/hr injectors, but just couldn't swing the extra cost right now.
Here's what I did:
Load the T4M0 base calibration. This calibration NEVER CHANGES. Keep it as read only.
1. Make changes to turn off EGR and Thermactor (smog). Save as a template.
2. Increase cubic inches to 306. Change injector crank pulsewidth vs ECT by 306 vs 302 ratio and injector change ratio (19/19 so no change really) Save as a template.
3. Make changes to low and high speed fan temps for on and off. Save as a template.
This gets saved as my T4M0Base.
Today I'm driving to and from work and logging the entire time. I'll push those logs through EEC Analyzer to see what pops up. I already know that the stock 19s are not enough. Duty cycle is just too high. And the stock mass air is barely OK. I've already seen a 4.86v reading, which means it's REAL close to being pegged. That being said - read on for the beauty of the Quarterhorse!
Mass Air sensor:
I bought from eBay a stock 2004 5.4L F150 Mass Air meter. It's basically the LMAF 90mm mass air meter, but not for the lightning. There is a KNOWN mass air transfer curve for this particular meter (sensor and housing). Shipped to my door it was 25$. Thats right - a 90mm Ford mass air meter for 25$ shipped. I had to buy some bigger 3.5 inch couplers (20$) and the correct mounting flange for an 03 F150 (15$) to get it installed with my cold air kit, and Sensor plug (I bought the original ford F150 plug for 24$ shipped). I made an adapter to go from that mass air sensor chassis side plug to the mass air harness so it will look factory. So for 85$ I can install this sensor, update the MAF transfer curve in the QH (already have a template for it) and eventually dial it in. The known curve should make it a breeze.
Installing the Mass Air:
First step was to pull out everything from the stock mass air going into the fender and get it on the bench. I then had to cut off the stock flange from the elbow that goes into the fenderwell. This wasn't as bad as I thought it would be. I just needed to leave a 1 inch lip in case I needed to revert back to stock. Then I started putting together the new setup. I realized that the bolts for the stock meter to stock flange were too big and wouldn't work. Off to the hardware store for nuts and bolts. Came back and bolted the sensor to the adapter flange, added the coupler to the elbow and put that in the fender. Then the other coupler to the tube that goes to the throttle body. Then I removed the stock mass air and ACT sensor harness. I removed the pins from the chassis side harness and installed the pins for my adapter. Then I plugged in the stock F150 Mass Air harness. Plugged everthing in, tightened down all the couplers once it was all aligned, and installed the filter in the fenderwell. I then fired up the quarterhorse, loaded the template for the mass air and updated, and it started right up and settled into a nice idle. Now I have a very nice setup with the 90mm mass air.
Injectors:
For my mild 306 I'll be installing Siemens Deka 60lb/hr injectors. These are the same injectors that are sold as ford racing, except the ones I bought from lightning force performance have the jetronic connector, not the (new) USCAR. So they should plug right in. I know - first thought is - "thats way too much injector for that setup". I thought the same thing too. Again, the beauty of the QH is that there are only a few parameters to change, and they are published for the injectors: high slope, low slope, breakpoint and voltage offset. The injector crank pulsewidth also needs to be adjusted by the ratio of 19's to 60s. I already created the template for this as well. These new style injectors are very tame at the low slope and shouldn't cause problems with 'dumping' fuel at low RPM / idle. They should run like stock but at a MUCH less duty cycle. The best part - no more buying new injectors if I ever want to upgrade! These will support any application / upgrade I come up with - right up to block splitting HP (and beyond). to put it in perspective, I almost bought the 80lb/hr injectors, but just couldn't swing the extra cost right now.
94 Mustang GT: Moates Quarterhorse and Binary Editor Beginnings
The Quarterhorse arrived in the mail two days after I ordered it.
Current Configuration: 1994 Mustang GT Convertible, 306CI GT40 Heads, 1.72 scorpion rockers, FTI cam, 94 Cobra Intake, BBK 70mm TB and stock injectors / mass air.
I downloaded and installed BE on my laptop. I eventually needed to plug in the dongle which I paid extra for. The dongle is essentially a portable license. I then plugged in the quarterhorse and had to install the drivers via device manager. This was all done while sitting on my couch - QH was not yet plugged into the car. I then updated BE and downloaded all the latest strategies and calibrations (I learned later I only need two of these... ).
I downloaded the CBAZA strategy and opened that in BE. I then needed to know what computer was in the car. Pulled the passenger kick panel to reveal it is a T4M0. Downloaded the stock T4M0.bin and wrote that to the QH. This gives me a BONE stock calibration.
Next I pulled the ECU only to reveal that there is a hypertech chip installed! I've had the car for years and I never knew that. Apparently it isn't compatible with an MCRP prepped 306 with an Ed Curtis cam! It certainly wasn't running correctly. Anyway, I pulled the chip, installed the QH and plugged it into my laptop. I was still able to 'see' the QH.
I disconnected the negative battery terminal and turned on the headlights to erase any Keep Alive Memory and adaptive learning. After a few minutes I connected the battery and started the car. It ran, and ran much nicer than previous. I hit the data logging start button and like magic I'm getting all these interesting readings from the QH - so I know it is working with the ECU. I shut the car off and happily went on with my evening.
Then I started reading. One thing that is nice is that this is not a new product / process. People have been using the QH and BE for YEARS, which means there is a ton of info out there. The best resources so far have been EECAnalyzer.net and the forum there, and Efidynotuning.com for the write ups.
Now I started playing around with the stock calibration. I made changes for the cubic inches to increase to 306. I also made a change to the fuel since I'm running 93 octane with 10% ethanol. I then wrote that to the QH, Started the car and took it for a drive to do some data logging.
My main concern was the stock 19 injectors (serviced and flow matched by Accurate IS) and the stock mass air. Will I peg the meter? will the injectors be enough? all the math pointed to the answer of maybe but it was all borderline. I now had the opportunity to take the car for a drive and data log a WOT pull. The pull felt pretty good but it was choppy from 4k to 6k RPM. What I found was REALLY INTERESTING!
Fast forward to me on the couch again looking at the data log. The first thing I learned is that large data logs are a pain to deal with. I copied the data from the WOT pull timeframe from the huge data log (.csv file) and made a new .csv via excel - essentially a new data log file. Now looking at this one is much more granular. Here is what I learned by looking at the log.
1. Air Charge Temp (ACT) was 40 degrees. It was very cold out!
2. At about 6k RPM the Mass Airflow Sensor Voltage (MAFV) is 4.81. to peg it will be 4.9 or higher for an extended period of time. Its CLOSE, but not pegged.
3. Injector duty cycle (INJDC1 and INJDC2) is 97%. This has me concerned. more on this in a minute.
4. Battery voltage (BATV) drops a LOT during a WOT pull. Battery and charging system are good, but the volts dropped from a healthy 14+ to 12.08 (min value) during the pull. I would have never known!
5. The ECU demanded a 11.8 AFR (LAMBSE1 and 2) during WOT. There was no correction happening, so I know MAF curve is good (it should be, since this is a stock calibration).
6. RPM is very smooth up until 4500. From there to 6k it seems to be 'choppy' (peaks and valleys in the graph). I'm not exactly sure what this is from, but I have some ideas.
7. ECU gave just about 27 degrees total timing at 6k. This was also interesting. I know from the dyno break in of the engine that it wants about 30 degrees to make the most power.
8. I can no longer own a mustang without having access to the data that is provided by a tuning device. It will be SO EASY to troubleshoot a problem with this thing.
Next steps:
I ordered a Kirban AFPR. I'm going to increase the fuel pressure, which should keep the duty cycle of the injectors down. Mass Air isn't pegged, so I'm going to leave that for now (although I do have a REALLY NEAT plan worked out to upgrade that in the future). I'm also going to clean up the ground wires to the engine / chassis / battery. I still can't believe how much that battery voltage dropped, and the choppy RPMs up top could be ignition related. It certainly isn't fuel or air after seeing the log.
Some important things I learned from reading - for you forced induction folks - The calibration I'm working with scales to 100% load. There are FREE calibrations that go to 200% load. An NA motor will never see over 100% load, but a power adder will take the load into the 100%+ range. The QH easily accounts for that!
An innovate wideband will plug right into the laptop (I need 3 USB ports though - QH, Dongle, Innovate) and will be logged along with the data from the QH. That means the data log graph would not only include the LAMBSE (what the ECU is demanding) but also the LAMBDA from the wideband which will show what the engine is producing in the exhaust. Once LAMBSE = LAMBDA, Fuel and Air are dialed in perfectly. THAT is why tuning with a wideband is so important for modified engines.
My engine is not 'highly' modified. Its built to be a VERY stout daily driver. But by the time I'm done with this effort, its going to be a very fine tuned application! More to come as I make more progress!
94 Mustang GT Convertible: Engine and Trans Upgrade
Here are my notes from the engine swap. It kind of covers what I went through on a day to day basis. The plan was to take a week off work, pull the T5, get it to Hanlon for a rebuild, pull the engine and get the new engine installed. It was a great plan, but didn't really play out that way.
First step was disassembly and actually getting the engine and trans out of the car. Here are some notes on that.
Start 2/8/2016
Disconnect the fuel shut off switch
Run the car until it stalls
Crank the car a few more times
Disconnect and remove the battery - keep it on a tender
Remove the mid pipe
Remove the driveshaft
Remove the shifter, speedo, reverse
Remove the crossmember and transmission
Take the trans to have it rebuilt at Hanlon Motorsports 2/10
Drain coolant, remove radiator
remove cold air intake
unbolt the power steering bracket and keep it off to the side.
remove upper intake - throttle cable, vac lines, EGR tube
Unplug EVERYTHING - there’s a lot
Motor mount bolts
ground strap and starter wire loom (3 spots)
engine out 2/12/2016
Trans - dropped off 2/10/2016 to Hanlon motorsports. The rebuild took just under 3 weeks time, but was totally worth it.
Got trans back 2/28/2016 - fixed cancer on main shaft, cluster support brace, latest rebuild kit, new fork and pivot ball.
Now that I had the trans back, There were some things needed. I made a list and then marked them off with the word done once it was taken care of.
Done Vacuum line 3/8 and 1/4. This was for the fuel pressure regulator, bypassing the smog vac lines and new hose for the PCV.
Before engine install
Done - Wire loom repair. Some broke / cracked during the extraction of the engine.
Done - install bell housing, new clutch fork, new release bearing
Done - replace pivot ball - the stock one was cone rather than a dome from all the wear.
Done - Restore dipstick tube. Stripped, painted with etching primer and then black wrinkle.
Done - Install dipstick along with some black RTV to prevent leaking
done - rust on the framerails - how far does it go? This was way worse than I thought it was. We cut holes in the frame rails and knocked out as much rust as possible. Then needed to do some rehab to stop the rust.
Done - Rust rehab in the framerails - wire brush, degreaser, metal prep, POR15
Done- Create cardboard frame rail templates - there will be an inner plate (11GA steel) and an outer plate that goes over that.
Done create frame rail plates 11 gauge 1/8 inch steel from templates. Inner and outer both sides.
Done test fit frame rail plates
Done paint frame rail plates with weld through primer.
Done - Lou - weld in frame rail plates - inner and outer. Some additional cutting , bending , shaping.
Done - wire wheel plates / welds
Done self etching primer the plates
Done black wrinkle over primer.
Some work on the engine while it was on the engine stand.
Done - New bbk ceramic unequal headers and header studs.
done - tighten header bolts
Done - Upper intake bolts - trim? No
Done - Distributer install
Done - install EGR on upper intake.
done - install passenger side VC vent tube
Done - install TB.
done - clearance intake - make it fit without spacer. This was achieved by changing the pvc fitting on the upper plenum (in the back) with a plastic one that had a lower profile. Also had to grind away some of the TB mounting flange on the back side. Then the intake fit without a spacer!
done - make EGR block plate
Done - trans prep - install crossmember, rebuild shifter, install vss, add fluid (Dex III Merc, non synthetic), install shifter.
Finally time for Reassembly
Done break out the crane!
Done Install motor mounts and motor once on the crane
Done install motor 3/7/2016 it is in the car.
Done PS bracket
Done coil install
Done Engine electrical hookups
Done Trans install
Done Shifter handle, boot and knob
Done Coolant lines
Done Fuel lines
Done Radiator and overflow
3/8/2016
Done Starter and bolts
Done Cap and wires
Done Idler pulley
Done Motor mount nuts
Done Driveshaft
Done mid pipe and O2 sensors
Done grounding straps
Done Upper intake, electrical, vac lines
Done EGR tube install on header (with Penny) - this was removed later.
Done Cold air intake
Done validate belt routing
3/11/2016
Done Fuel shut off
Done Battery
Done Coolant
Done power steering fluid
First startup - prime 2x pull spout
3/12/2016 it runs (rough). It was late so I didn't run it for long.
3/13/2016 Set the Timing at 10 degrees with the spout out.
Throttle body adjustment - base idle reset.
Adjust clutch cable - too tight. Needed to take out the MM 3/4 spacer at the end of the cable where it meets the clutch fork.
I'm having problems with it staying running. I did get the timing set and made a mess of the coolant. trying to burp the system. Pulled the codes and got one for the ECT. Off to the store we go. To pick up fuel pressure gauge (rented), IAC, ECT, and a belt.
3/14 - Lou showed up to help out! pulled plugs - fouled. codes say engine coolant temp sensor is bad. fuel pressure is good. belt is too short. Back to autozone to pick up plugs and exchange the belt. When we got back we replaced belt it fit well. We replaced plugs, and did another idle base reset. Unplugged the ECT from the car and plugged in new ECT - not installed, but It idles (cold)!
3/16 Installed ECT and added more antifreeze. Idle set at cold and hot.
3/19 Its finally down off jack stands, and I got a chance to ckear out the garage. Test drive led to CEL - multiple.
3/20 - CEL for lean exhaust. Fixed exhaust leak - #4 header tube passenger side. I loosened header, tightened #4 and the rest. Also moved shim on k member for mid pipe clearance. firewall adjuster is all the way in - still tight. I also found muffler is cracked. Removed spacer from MM clutch cable at the quadrant. adjusted firewall adjuster - clutch feel is perfect now.
3/22 - Cleared codes and drove it. Multiple codes point to CCRM (fan low speed, fuel pump relay). Replaced. Codes are gone for CCRM. I must have kicked the CCRM I don't know how many times getting into and out of the engine bay when doing the rust rehab.
3/24 - Replaced O2 sensors. Cleared memory and drove it. CEL again.
3/25 - Still getting lean code. Fixed header collector flange leak on drivers side. Installed new stainless studs, nuts and washers. Cleared memory and drove it again. Still getting CEL.
3/27 - Lean code still there. Also suspect fuel issue. Traced wires. Found that power to ground pin on the engine harness side for the drivers side O2 sensor connector is pushed back. Serviced by taking weather pack apart and moving the pin then putting it back together. No more lean code 176! Found fuel on the intake. #1 injector popped out. loosened fuel rail, pushed injector back in, held down fuel rail and tightened. At this point, I also ordered the Moates Quarterhorse package and Binary Editor.
First step was disassembly and actually getting the engine and trans out of the car. Here are some notes on that.
Start 2/8/2016
Disconnect the fuel shut off switch
Run the car until it stalls
Crank the car a few more times
Disconnect and remove the battery - keep it on a tender
Remove the mid pipe
Remove the driveshaft
Remove the shifter, speedo, reverse
Remove the crossmember and transmission
Take the trans to have it rebuilt at Hanlon Motorsports 2/10
Drain coolant, remove radiator
remove cold air intake
unbolt the power steering bracket and keep it off to the side.
remove upper intake - throttle cable, vac lines, EGR tube
Unplug EVERYTHING - there’s a lot
Motor mount bolts
ground strap and starter wire loom (3 spots)
engine out 2/12/2016
Trans - dropped off 2/10/2016 to Hanlon motorsports. The rebuild took just under 3 weeks time, but was totally worth it.
Got trans back 2/28/2016 - fixed cancer on main shaft, cluster support brace, latest rebuild kit, new fork and pivot ball.
Now that I had the trans back, There were some things needed. I made a list and then marked them off with the word done once it was taken care of.
Done Vacuum line 3/8 and 1/4. This was for the fuel pressure regulator, bypassing the smog vac lines and new hose for the PCV.
Before engine install
Done - Wire loom repair. Some broke / cracked during the extraction of the engine.
Done - install bell housing, new clutch fork, new release bearing
Done - replace pivot ball - the stock one was cone rather than a dome from all the wear.
Done - Restore dipstick tube. Stripped, painted with etching primer and then black wrinkle.
Done - Install dipstick along with some black RTV to prevent leaking
done - rust on the framerails - how far does it go? This was way worse than I thought it was. We cut holes in the frame rails and knocked out as much rust as possible. Then needed to do some rehab to stop the rust.
Done - Rust rehab in the framerails - wire brush, degreaser, metal prep, POR15
Done- Create cardboard frame rail templates - there will be an inner plate (11GA steel) and an outer plate that goes over that.
Done create frame rail plates 11 gauge 1/8 inch steel from templates. Inner and outer both sides.
Done test fit frame rail plates
Done paint frame rail plates with weld through primer.
Done - Lou - weld in frame rail plates - inner and outer. Some additional cutting , bending , shaping.
Done - wire wheel plates / welds
Done self etching primer the plates
Done black wrinkle over primer.
Some work on the engine while it was on the engine stand.
Done - New bbk ceramic unequal headers and header studs.
done - tighten header bolts
Done - Upper intake bolts - trim? No
Done - Distributer install
Done - install EGR on upper intake.
done - install passenger side VC vent tube
Done - install TB.
done - clearance intake - make it fit without spacer. This was achieved by changing the pvc fitting on the upper plenum (in the back) with a plastic one that had a lower profile. Also had to grind away some of the TB mounting flange on the back side. Then the intake fit without a spacer!
done - make EGR block plate
Done - trans prep - install crossmember, rebuild shifter, install vss, add fluid (Dex III Merc, non synthetic), install shifter.
Finally time for Reassembly
Done break out the crane!
Done Install motor mounts and motor once on the crane
Done install motor 3/7/2016 it is in the car.
Done PS bracket
Done coil install
Done Engine electrical hookups
Done Trans install
Done Shifter handle, boot and knob
Done Coolant lines
Done Fuel lines
Done Radiator and overflow
3/8/2016
Done Starter and bolts
Done Cap and wires
Done Idler pulley
Done Motor mount nuts
Done Driveshaft
Done mid pipe and O2 sensors
Done grounding straps
Done Upper intake, electrical, vac lines
Done EGR tube install on header (with Penny) - this was removed later.
Done Cold air intake
Done validate belt routing
3/11/2016
Done Fuel shut off
Done Battery
Done Coolant
Done power steering fluid
First startup - prime 2x pull spout
3/12/2016 it runs (rough). It was late so I didn't run it for long.
3/13/2016 Set the Timing at 10 degrees with the spout out.
Throttle body adjustment - base idle reset.
Adjust clutch cable - too tight. Needed to take out the MM 3/4 spacer at the end of the cable where it meets the clutch fork.
I'm having problems with it staying running. I did get the timing set and made a mess of the coolant. trying to burp the system. Pulled the codes and got one for the ECT. Off to the store we go. To pick up fuel pressure gauge (rented), IAC, ECT, and a belt.
3/14 - Lou showed up to help out! pulled plugs - fouled. codes say engine coolant temp sensor is bad. fuel pressure is good. belt is too short. Back to autozone to pick up plugs and exchange the belt. When we got back we replaced belt it fit well. We replaced plugs, and did another idle base reset. Unplugged the ECT from the car and plugged in new ECT - not installed, but It idles (cold)!
3/16 Installed ECT and added more antifreeze. Idle set at cold and hot.
3/19 Its finally down off jack stands, and I got a chance to ckear out the garage. Test drive led to CEL - multiple.
3/20 - CEL for lean exhaust. Fixed exhaust leak - #4 header tube passenger side. I loosened header, tightened #4 and the rest. Also moved shim on k member for mid pipe clearance. firewall adjuster is all the way in - still tight. I also found muffler is cracked. Removed spacer from MM clutch cable at the quadrant. adjusted firewall adjuster - clutch feel is perfect now.
3/22 - Cleared codes and drove it. Multiple codes point to CCRM (fan low speed, fuel pump relay). Replaced. Codes are gone for CCRM. I must have kicked the CCRM I don't know how many times getting into and out of the engine bay when doing the rust rehab.
3/24 - Replaced O2 sensors. Cleared memory and drove it. CEL again.
3/25 - Still getting lean code. Fixed header collector flange leak on drivers side. Installed new stainless studs, nuts and washers. Cleared memory and drove it again. Still getting CEL.
3/27 - Lean code still there. Also suspect fuel issue. Traced wires. Found that power to ground pin on the engine harness side for the drivers side O2 sensor connector is pushed back. Serviced by taking weather pack apart and moving the pin then putting it back together. No more lean code 176! Found fuel on the intake. #1 injector popped out. loosened fuel rail, pushed injector back in, held down fuel rail and tightened. At this point, I also ordered the Moates Quarterhorse package and Binary Editor.
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